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    San Juan Island is steeped in unique history. We have the dubious fame of being host to one of the longest running wars on American soil. Actually that was the whole gist of the war... whether this was American or British soil. There was a treaty in place, but arguments erupted over a portion of the boundary described as the "middle of the channel" separating the British colony of Vancouver's Island from the U. S. mainland. There were actually two channels, Haro Strait (nearest to Vancouver) and Rosario Strait, nearer to the U.S. mainland. San Juan Island huddles right between the two straits. Britain insisted that the boundary ran through Rosario Strait, but the Americans said it lay through Haro Strait. So both sides considered San Juan theirs for settlement.

    In 1845, Hudson's Bay Company posted a notice of possession on San Juan, and in 1850 they established a salmon-curing station. A few years later they started Bellevue Farm, a sheep ranch. By 1859, 18 to 25 U.S. citizens had also settled on San Juan Island. They were settled on redemption claims which they expected the U.S. Government to recognize as valid, but the British considered illegal. Neither side recognized the authority of the other, so everyone was on edge and things were bound to come to a head.

    In June of 1859, Lyman Cutlar (one of the U.S. settlers) shot a pig that was raiding his garden. Afterwards, he realized the pig belonged to the Hudson's Bay Company and offered to pay for it. They claimed the pig was a champion breeder and was valued at $100. Cutlar was outraged at the price considering the pig had also just trashed his garden, and he refused to pay. He was told he'd pay or be arrested for trespassing.

    The American citizens requested U.S. military protection. George E. Pickett (of later Civil War fame) was sent to San Juan Island with a 66-man unit. They landed in July and set up camp near the Hudson's Bay Company wharf, just north of Bellevue Farm. Throughout the remaining days of July and early August, the British forces in Griffin Bay (then San Juan Harbor) continued to grow. Pickett also received reinforcements under Lt. Col. Silas Casey, who now assumed active command. Captain Hornby (in charge of the British troops) waited to take any action against the Americans until the arrival of Rear Adm. Robert L. Baynes, commander of British naval forces in the Pacific. Baynes was disgusted and wanted no part of involving "two great nations in a war over a squabble about a pig".

    By the end of August, 461 Americans, protected by 14 cannons, were opposed by 5 British warships mounting 167 guns and carrying 2,140 troops, including Royal Marines, artillerymen, sappers, and miners. Still no one budged, nor was a shot fired. Eventually an agreement was forged whereby a token force from each nation would occupy San Juan until a final settlement could be reached. On March 21, 1860, British Royal Marines landed and established camp on Garrison Bay, to this day known as English Camp. The U.S. troops stayed where they were, still known as American Camp.

    San Juan Island remained under joint military occupation for 12 years. In 1871, when Great Britain and the United States signed the Treaty of Washington, the San Juan question was referred to Kaiser Wilhelm I of Germany for settlement. In October of 1872, the emperor ruled in favor of the United States, establishing the boundary line through Haro Strait. San Juan became an American possession and the final boundary between Canada and the United States was set. In November of 1872, the Royal Marines withdrew from English Camp. By July of 1874, the last of the U.S. troops had left American Camp. The 49th parallel was no longer occupied by any military force and I suppose the local residents partied 'til dawn, although I have no proof of that.

    San Juan Island would be remembered for a military confrontation in which the only casualty was a pig. Which in my opinion was one casualty too many. However, this all makes for two great historical sites to visit, the annual Pig War Barbecue, and enjoyable re-enactments played out by local actors in summer. See our Events calendar for dates.

    English Camp has formal gardens and was much more protected from the elements, with richer soil and large trees. They certainly had the better end of the deal as far as food and lodging were concerned. All of the photos above, except the "beach", were taken at English Camp. For such a relatively small island, there is an amazing difference in the look of each area.

    The south end of the island has beaches of sand and smooth rocks, and that is where the "beach" photo above was taken. It is drier than most other areas of the island and has a windswept look. American Camp is located here, and there are areas set up for campfires and picnics at 4th of July Beach. Don't be surprised if the seagulls show up to beg for snacks. It's common to see fishing and pleasure boats out on the water. You can often see the Orca pass by, and the sunsets are incredible.

    Over the years many Islanders have shared stories with us. Some are funny, some historic, some just part of the local lore. Click here to read a few.

    Advance reservations are suggested for all activities and lodging.

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